The best time to open your pool is in early spring, when the ice has melted, and the sun is gaining strength.
NOTE: Read the following carefully before starting and follow the steps in order to avoid damage due to an error during the opening process.
STEP 1 : DAY PRIOR TO THE OPENING
STEP 2 : THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
STEP 3 : YOU’LL BE SWIMMING SOON
STEP 1 : DAY PRIOR TO THE OPENING
STEP 2: THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
STEP 3 : YOU’LL SWIMMING SOON!
Three parameters influence the balance of the water in your pool: its acidity, hardness and alkalinity. The water needs to be neither too calcareous, too hard nor too soft. An accurate analysis will allow you to achieve the correct balance. It is important, both for swimmers’ health and safety, as well as to enhance the effectiveness and lifespan of your equipment.
Regularly analyze the following three factors:
Did you know that the water temperature can also affect disinfection? Too high a temperature can encourage the growth of algae and damage your liner.
Finally, you can also do a simple visual check of the colour of your water. It will be obvious if the water becomes cloudy, or greenish in color. Should that happen, take steps immediately to restore the water balance.
To take the various necessary measurements,use a colorimetric tester or digital tester.
The colorimetric test works this way: you dip a strip into the water, then remove it. Wait a few seconds, then compare the colour on the strip against the colours shown on the packaging of your tester. This will indicate whether the level is too low or too high. There are several models of testers available – choose the one that suits you best.
You should also consider getting products that allow you to correct the balance of your water (pH, alkalinity, etc.).
It is in your best interest to analyze the water regularly. Doing so will avoid having to deal with a major issue and losing control of your water balance during peak swimming season!
Did you know that there are tools to analyze your pool water online? Thanks to these online tools, you can diagnose your water from home. You only need to enter the results of your water tests online to obtain immediate recommendations on the exact quantity of the products you need to balance your water.
With minimum effort and constant, regular monitoring, you can enjoy crystal-clear pool water throughout the season!
The water in your swimming pool must be correctly filtered and disinfected.
The water must also be balanced. The values of the pH, TA and CH provide vital information about the quality of the water. The levels of these variables must be measured regularly. It is a matter of swimmers’ health as well as maximizing the life of your equipment.
Three parameters must be considered and balanced: the pH, the hardness (CH) of the water and its alkalinity (TA).
You can measure the pH, CH and TA with strips or digital testers. It is very simple!
Several factors influence the efficiency of chlorine in a pool, and those factors can easily cause water instability. If the chlorine level is wrong, it needs to be adjusted as soon as possible.
If your pool is lacking chlorine, your water is not totally disinfected, and therefore its quality is compromised. In that case, you must add chlorine in small increments, until you reach the optimal level. Don’t forget to use your chlorine stabilizer!
If your pool water contains too much chlorine, it could irritate eyes and skin, making swimming unpleasant. To correct the situation, you can replace some of the volume of your pool water, add a neutralizing product, or use a UV lamp. These methods will all decrease the level of chlorine.
The best way to maintain an optimal level of chlorine is to check it regularly. You can then either increase or decrease the chlorine quickly, if necessary.
The use of a chlorine stabilizer is recommended. This product enhances the disinfecting action of chlorine.
Did you know chlorine that is already stabilized is available? It’s chlorine coupled with a stabilizer. Chlorine tablets, for example, are already stabilized. If that is the type of chlorine you use, do not add stabilizer, you will risk destabilizing the water and will then have to deal with over-stabilization.
Finally, make sure that your filter is always clean, and the chlorine is at its optimal level.
Pool flocculant is designed to improve the performance of your filter while enhancing the effectiveness of your water sanitation system. It also contributes to keeping your water crystal clear. When you use flocculant on a regular basis along with chlorine, the effectiveness of chlorine is enhanced: this is because while chlorine is busy eliminating fine particles from your water, it loses its effectiveness against bacteria. So using a flocculant to destroy fine particles frees up the chlorine to fulfill its role as a disinfectant.
The flocculant is recommended for pools equipped with sand filters, which don’t always filter out all the impurities in your water.
A treatment using a halogen-oxidizing agent does not contain chlorine or bromine and is designed as a “shock treatment.” Performing this treatment regularly will help oxidize most organic contaminants that accumulate in the water of pools and spas, and will reduce the need to use a sanitizer to disinfect the water. Note that an oxidizer is not a sanitizer. For regular sanitization of pool or spa water, use a disinfectant (chlorine or bromine).
A shock treatment with chlorine is made with powdered chlorine and dissolves quickly in water. It’s effective immediately, but it’s important to use a sufficient quantity for the treatment to be effective. The amount you use will depend on the volume of water in your pool. Certain products are specifically identified as chlorine shock.”
A chlorine shock treatment needs to be done in a timely manner, and only in certain cases, i.e., when your usual treatment is no longer effective. The chlorination shock restores the balance of the water, its cleanliness, and its transparency.
You must do a chlorine shock treatment:
After each chlorine shock treatment, your water will be clear. However, regular cleaning of your swimming pool should never be neglected.
You can use an algaecide as a preventive treatment or to solve a particular issue. If your water becomes cloudy or if the walls of your pool are slippery, it may be due to the growth of algae. An algaecide will eliminate algae in your water.
Once the treatment is complete, you must clean your swimming pool. Simply scrub the pool walls with a brush to remove the dead algae. Then let the filtration system work until your water once again becomes crystal clear. By adding a flocculent to your water, you can optimize the filtration process.
The algaecide action is not continuous. To avoid algae returning, use a small amount of algaecide as a preventive measure.
A great way to prevent the presence of algae is to regularly check the pH level and the temperature of your water; they must not be too high. Also make sure to maintain an adequate level of disinfectant in the water.
Not using your swimming pool? Cover it! Algae need light to grow so depriving them of light helps. If you use a solar cover, be careful, as you do not want the temperature of the water to become too high. Algae love the heat!
Another preventive measure is to regularly clean your pool (using a broom or your robotic pool cleaner) and your filter.
Use an algaecide in your swimming pool to prevent the presence of algae or to eliminate them if they should appear. The quantity needed will vary on a case-by-case basis.
Dirt deposits on the surface of the water are one of the most common problems. Remove large pieces of debris using a net and clean the pool afterward using a pool vacuum or robotic pool cleaner. Also remember to clean the filter, pump, and skimmer regularly, to avoid the accumulation of waste.
Various products used by swimmers (sunscreen, make-up, etc.) and air pollution can cause the appearance of oily residue on the surface of the water. To remedy this, an absorbent fabric is available that is placed in the skimmer to absorb residue.
The filtration process can help to reduce the limestone, waste, and oils, which settle on the surface of the water. However, you will still find some of this type of residue on the walls of your pool, at the water line. You will need to clean this area regularly (at least once a week when your pool is in operation). Simply use a sponge (without scraper, to avoid damaging the lining) with a common household cleaning product.
A strong smell of chlorine emanating from your water is not necessarily caused by too much chlorine in your pool. Strangely, it could be because of too little chlorine, which can also cause eye irritation. Should that be the case, you’ll then want to carry out a chlorine shock treatment or use active oxygen.
Your water is clear and translucent, but it has a brown or green hue. This indicates a high content of mineral or metallic particles. You can remedy the problem by first checking your filter and the pH level. You may need to carry out a shock treatment. Of course, you will also have to thoroughly clean your pool.
This issue can be explained by too much limestone in the water. First, clean the bottom of your pool with a brush and vacuum. If this does not resolve the situation, use a product such as a stabilizer or an anti-scale treatment.
If the water of your swimming pool is whitish or appears milky, a number of issues may be the cause, including algae, limestone, variation in the pH, ineffective filtration, etc. To restore the water’s balance, you will need to carry out a chlorine shock treatment or use a flocculent product.
If you notice this phenomenon in your swimming pool, it’s due to brass oxidation in the water. A flocculent product and washing the filter should restore your water to its usual colour.
Your water is greenish, your pool floor is slippery. This means that algae have grown in your pool. In such case, check the pH level and adjust it accordingly. This is important as the pH level impacts the efficiency of the disinfectant you use.
Do a shock treatment (by increasing the dose of chlorine you usually use). You can also opt to use an algaecide.
Keep your filter running until the water becomes clear again.
To eliminate algae: hand-brush the walls of your swimming pool.
The condition of your water will determine the action you need to take. If algae only just appeared on your pool walls, it will be easier to restore it to its usual state. However, if the water is opaque green, you will have to be more patient as you rebalance the pool water.
If you don’t see dirt deposits in your pool, and the water is clear but feels “thick,” or the walls of your pool are slippery, you may well have algae in your pool. Algae are not necessarily visible, but you can feel them!
Various factors can explain the presence of algae in your swimming pool:
As soon as you notice the walls and bottom of your pool have become slimy, or that your water seems “thick” the sooner you should act. Taking immediate action lessens the chance of damage.
You can close your pool as late as mid-October. If algae are present or if the water is visibly not clear, treat it immediately.
IMPORTANT: Carefully read the entire instructions before closing your pool.
TIPS: Do not stop maintaining the pool or stop filtering the pool before closing day. Before closing your pool for the winter, make sure there are no water leaks. If you do have leaks, make repairs immediately to avoid causing further damage to the pool.
STEP 1: DAY BEFORE THE SHUTDOWN
STEP 2: CLEANING THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
STEP 3: DRAINING THE POOL
Turn the breaker controlling the light(s) OFF. Remove the light(s). If you have a stainlesssteel light with a glass window (American Product, Sta-Rite or Jacuzzi), lie down on the pool’s surround and undo the light screw located at the top of the metal ring. The light can then be removed and placed on the pool surround. We recommend placing a piece of Styrofoam over the glass window to prevent scratching, and then placing it inside a polythene bag. Using a small stake and a cord, attach the bag in such a way that it cannot fall into the water.
Position the water heater to “0-OFF” and turn off the breaker, as required. We strongly recommend that you hose down the inside and outside of the heater to wash out all debris before the winter. Unplug the water hoses and blow or suck the air inside them to ensure that ice cannot expand into the hoses during the winter. Then shut down the hoses and leave the bypass valves open. Protect it with a tarp, a waterproof canvas or polythene-type plastic. If you have a gas water heater, do not forget to shut off the gas.
Salt chlorine generator
Turn OFF the generator power switch and unplug the electrical cord. Then unplug the cell from the control panel and unscrew the cell from the hose before taking it completely away from the pool’s piping. Using a cell support (which keeps it upright), clean the cell with a solution designed specifically for that purpose. To clean the cell, pour the solution inside the cell and leave it for about 15 minutes, then rinse it using your garden hose. Once it’s clean, the cell can be put back in place.
IMPORTANT: Please note that this information is provided for reference only, and that at all times work done is undertaken at the user’s risk.
STEP 1: DAY BEFORE THE SHUTDOWN
STEP 2: CLEANING THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
STEP 3: DRAINING THE POOL
STEP 4: PUMP STORAGE
STEP 5: FILTER STORAGE
STEP 6: BOTTOM DRAIN
For uneven ground (questionable drainage):
STEP 7: SKIMMER
STEP 8: WATER RETURN
WATER RETURN LIGHTS
STEP 9: SHUTDOWN KIT
STEP 10: WINTER COVER
When using a winter cover, you must place a ball under the cover and ensure that the water that accumulates on the cover is drained; this will avoid unnecessary tension on the cover which could eventually damage the pool. The winter cover should be taken off before periods of heavy freezing.
If you use a net for leaves, you can remove it after all the leaves have fallen. However, if you are installing an elastic system, the net can spend the winter over the pool without any problem.
STEP 11: SHUTTING DOWN THE WATER HEATER
ATTENTION: Once your pool is closed, heavy autumn rainfall could cause the water level to rise. A too-high water level, combined with frost, could damage the skimmer’s side panels. If the water should rise, again lower the water level to 18″ below the skimmer. Ensure that rain and melting snow will drain properly, meaning away from the pool, to avoid damage to the structure.
IMPORTANT: Please note that this information is provided for reference only and that at all times work done is undertaken at the client’s risk..
Before you drain your spa, remember to use a plumbing cleaner to get rid of grease and other build-up. We strongly recommend using a special product to clean the inside of your spa’s plumbing. Dirty pipes give off a bad smell and harbour excessive amounts of bacteria. What’s more, all that build-up makes cleaning products less effective.
Take the time to check the overall condition of your spa (seals, hoses, valves, acrylic shell, collars or clamps) to see if there is any problem or damage.
Make all necessary repairs before you proceed. Contact a professional if you need help.
Go through your cleaning products. If they’re expired, throw them out. If you’re missing any products, be sure to get them before you start up your spa. If you have an AquaChek test kit, check the expiry date.
Test your spa water to adjust total alkalinity and calcium hardness and make sure they are in the ideal range. Check that pH and chlorine (or bromine) levels are in the appropriate range and be sure to maintain the balance at all times. Chlorine (or bromine) should be added daily or as needed. pH levels should be checked or adjusted weekly.
With water test interpretation tools online, there is no need to leave the house to analyze the water in your spa. All you have to do is enter your water test results online and you’ll get instant advice on the amount of product you should use to balance your water.
With a bit of effort and perseverance, you’ll be able to keep your water balanced at all times.
Shock your spa water weekly without using chlorine. Shocking your water helps clarify and oxidize the water while eliminating the smell of chlorine. You can use the spa right after the treatment.
Use a clarifier weekly to eliminate particulates and restore clarity to your spa water.
Adding a descaling agent to your water prevents scale build-up and protects the spa’s plumbing and heating unit against corrosion.
Always filter your spa water to make sure it is really clean. Install the spa filters as soon as you have installed your spa. Filtration is the first step in the spa water treatment process. To clean your filters, take out the cartridges and use a cartridge filter cleaner to remove grease and body oils from the filters. Be sure to clean your cartridge filters once a month.
Drain your spa every three months to clean the tub and the pipes. This is also a good time to clean the filters or replace them if needed. When you’re done, simply refill the spa and treat the water as usual.
Draining your spa for winter
If you have an outdoor spa and don’t plan to use it during the cold season, be sure to drain it just before winter. To do so, empty the tub completely and cover it with a spa cover. Unplug all equipment and turn off the power.
Remember to drain (purge) the pipes as well to make sure they don’t freeze in winter.
It is extremely important to properly winterize your spa in order to avoid leaks, damage to the filtration system and deformities on its acrylic shell. Careful winterizing will extend the life of your spa, as long as you take good care of it.
Although you should never turn off your pump prior to winterizing, you may adjust the thermostat down to its minimum temperature setting.
Once you are ready to close your spa for the winter, proceed as follows:
Turn off the pump.
Remove, clean and store the filter cartridge.
Remove and store spa accessories, such as baskets, floating objects, brome dispenser, etc.
Drain the spa.
Unplug pump, blower, ozone generator, light and any other items connected to the electric control panel. Store indoors.
Unscrew all the plumbing connections and fittings.
Unscrew all the water jets and store them indoors.
Using a blower or a ShopVac-type vacuum cleaner, vacuum and blow into every pipe to ensure that all jet holes are dry and free of water.
A good way to proceed is as follows: With your vacuum or blower in one hole, plug every other hole with a rubber stopper, except for one. Blow or vacuum, then switch the rubber stoppers around to close the previous hole and open another one. Repeat for every hole. This will ensure maximum pressure within the plumbing circuit. Use the top-mounted valves to direct the airflow to different zones.
Blow air into every hole leading to the spa’s blower, if applicable.
With a towel, wipe down the water ejected from the holes.
Add spa antifreeze (non-toxic) to all the pipes from inside the spa, as there may still be water remaining in the plumbing circuit.
Pour antifreeze into the holes that lead to the spa’s blower.
Remove excess water with a flexible plastic container.
Use a towel to wipe down the spa until it is dry.
Close the access panel.
Insert the pre-formed foam block so it reaches the same height as the cover.
Install spa cover over foam block, ensuring it is centered and properly aligned.
Install a tarp over the spa and attach it securely. This will protect your spa against snow, ice and wind damage.
Store your chemicals in a dry, heated place, so you can use them again next year.
If you choose to keep your spa operational in winter: