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Maintenance guide for SpasPools
- Opening
- Water Analysis
- Water Balancing
- Sanitation
- Clarifier l’eau
- Shock treatment
- Algaecide
- Common Problems
- Closing
The best time to open your pool is in early spring, when the ice has melted, and the sun is gaining strength.
NOTE: Read the following carefully before starting and follow the steps in order to avoid damage due to an error during the opening process.
Guide to Opening an In-Ground Pool +
STEP 1 : DAY PRIOR TO THE OPENING
- Clean up the dirt around the pool using an appropriate cleaning product.
- Remove any leaves and debris that have accumulated in the bottom of the pool.
- Pour a degreasing product directly into the pool to make cleaning easier.
STEP 2 : THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
- Take off the water return caps and the skimmer cap. Be careful! If you have independent plumbing, you only need to take off a single cap from the skimmer. If you remove both caps, water will leak from the second hole. However, if your bottom drain is connected to the skimmer, you must take off both caps.
- Replace the pressure gauge (dial), the filter drains (plug) cap and the glass bottle over the filter.
- Replace the cap (plug) over the pump and the chlorinator (or brominator). If you have a salt chlorine generator, it is at this stage that the cell should be reinstalled.
- Replace all your accessories: ladder(s), diving board, safety cable, etc.
- Remove the protective polythene from your light and put it back in place. ATTENTION! You must not activate your breaker before the light is in place.
- Reconnect the heat pump cables if not already connected and switch the breaker on.
- Once the pool reaches the right water level, fill the front of the pump with water. Put the filter handle in the FILTER position and start the pump.
STEP 3 : YOU’LL BE SWIMMING SOON
- Clean the bottom of the pool with the; making sure that the filter is in the DRAIN or WASTE position.
- Frequently clean the pump basket to ensure the best suction at all times.
- Raise the water level as necessary (to the middle or two-thirds of the skimmer).
- Let the pool run five to six hours prior to performing an analysis.
- Do three-minute backwashes as often as possible for the first 48 hours (four to five times every day).
Guide to Opening an Above-Ground Pool +
STEP 1 : DAY PRIOR TO THE OPENING
- Clean up the dirt around the pool using an appropriate cleaning product.
- Remove any leaves and debris that have accumulated in the bottom of the pool.
- Pour a degreaser directly into the pool to make cleaning easier.
STEP 2: THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
- Attach the water return hose and the skimmer hose to the filter.
- Reinstall the pressure gauge (dial), the filter tank cap, the backwash hose cap and the transparent bubble on the filter head. To ensure a tight seal, wrap Teflon tape around the thread.
- Raise the water level to the two-thirds of the skimmer or to mid-level.
- Turn on the filter and then do a light back-wash
STEP 3 : YOU’LL SWIMMING SOON!
- Clean the bottom of the pool. Make sure that the filter is in the DRAIN or WASTE position.
- Frequently clean the pump basket to allow for proper suction at all times.
- Raise the water level as necessary (to the middle or to two-thirds of the skimmer).
- Let the pool run five to six hours prior to performing an analysis.
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Water analysis: what needs to be checked?
Three parameters influence the balance of the water in your pool: its acidity, hardness and alkalinity. The water needs to be neither too calcareous, too hard nor too soft. An accurate analysis will allow you to achieve the correct balance. It is important, both for swimmers’ health and safety, as well as to enhance the effectiveness and lifespan of your equipment.
Regularly analyze the following three factors:
- Acidity (pH): the pH of your water must be neutral, around 7.
- The Hardness (CH): ideally the water CH should be between 200 and 400mg/L. If it’s above this level, you may risk having limestone deposits on the walls of your swimming pool.
- The alkalinity (TA): make sure to maintain the level between 80 and 120 mg/L.
- Additionally, make sure to check the level of disinfectant in your pool water.
Did you know that the water temperature can also affect disinfection? Too high a temperature can encourage the growth of algae and damage your liner.
Finally, you can also do a simple visual check of the colour of your water. It will be obvious if the water becomes cloudy, or greenish in color. Should that happen, take steps immediately to restore the water balance.
Products to help you analyze your water
To take the various necessary measurements,use a colorimetric tester or digital tester.
The colorimetric test works this way: you dip a strip into the water, then remove it. Wait a few seconds, then compare the colour on the strip against the colours shown on the packaging of your tester. This will indicate whether the level is too low or too high. There are several models of testers available – choose the one that suits you best.
You should also consider getting products that allow you to correct the balance of your water (pH, alkalinity, etc.).
It is in your best interest to analyze the water regularly. Doing so will avoid having to deal with a major issue and losing control of your water balance during peak swimming season!
Did you know that there are tools to analyze your pool water online? Thanks to these online tools, you can diagnose your water from home. You only need to enter the results of your water tests online to obtain immediate recommendations on the exact quantity of the products you need to balance your water.
With minimum effort and constant, regular monitoring, you can enjoy crystal-clear pool water throughout the season!
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Water Balancing
The water in your swimming pool must be correctly filtered and disinfected.
The water must also be balanced. The values of the pH, TA and CH provide vital information about the quality of the water. The levels of these variables must be measured regularly. It is a matter of swimmers’ health as well as maximizing the life of your equipment.
Three parameters must be considered and balanced: the pH, the hardness (CH) of the water and its alkalinity (TA).
- The pH of the water indicates its level of acidity. In your swimming pool, the water must be neutral or slightly basic (around 7.4). Certain factors can upset the pH of your water: changes in temperature, too little or too much disinfectant, etc.
- The hardness of the water corresponds to its concentration of limestone. The CH of the water in your pool should be between 200 and 400 ppm (mg/L).
- The alkalinity (TA) of the water indicates its concentration of ions of carbonates and bicarbonates. Its function is essential for the stability of the pH. The alkalinity must be between 80 and 140 mg/L.
You can measure the pH, CH and TA with strips or digital testers. It is very simple!
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Sanitizing
Chlorine
Several factors influence the efficiency of chlorine in a pool, and those factors can easily cause water instability. If the chlorine level is wrong, it needs to be adjusted as soon as possible.
If your pool is lacking chlorine, your water is not totally disinfected, and therefore its quality is compromised. In that case, you must add chlorine in small increments, until you reach the optimal level. Don’t forget to use your chlorine stabilizer!
If your pool water contains too much chlorine, it could irritate eyes and skin, making swimming unpleasant. To correct the situation, you can replace some of the volume of your pool water, add a neutralizing product, or use a UV lamp. These methods will all decrease the level of chlorine.
Maintaining the optimal level of chlorine for your pool
The best way to maintain an optimal level of chlorine is to check it regularly. You can then either increase or decrease the chlorine quickly, if necessary.
The use of a chlorine stabilizer is recommended. This product enhances the disinfecting action of chlorine.
Did you know chlorine that is already stabilized is available? It’s chlorine coupled with a stabilizer. Chlorine tablets, for example, are already stabilized. If that is the type of chlorine you use, do not add stabilizer, you will risk destabilizing the water and will then have to deal with over-stabilization.
Finally, make sure that your filter is always clean, and the chlorine is at its optimal level.
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Maintaining crystal clear water
Pool flocculant is designed to improve the performance of your filter while enhancing the effectiveness of your water sanitation system. It also contributes to keeping your water crystal clear. When you use flocculant on a regular basis along with chlorine, the effectiveness of chlorine is enhanced: this is because while chlorine is busy eliminating fine particles from your water, it loses its effectiveness against bacteria. So using a flocculant to destroy fine particles frees up the chlorine to fulfill its role as a disinfectant.
The flocculant is recommended for pools equipped with sand filters, which don’t always filter out all the impurities in your water.
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Shock treatment
Shock treatment without chlorine:
- Does not contain chlorine
- Revives the brilliance and clarity of the water
- Allows you to swim immediately
- Eliminates organic contaminants
A treatment using a halogen-oxidizing agent does not contain chlorine or bromine and is designed as a “shock treatment.” Performing this treatment regularly will help oxidize most organic contaminants that accumulate in the water of pools and spas, and will reduce the need to use a sanitizer to disinfect the water. Note that an oxidizer is not a sanitizer. For regular sanitization of pool or spa water, use a disinfectant (chlorine or bromine).
Shock treatment with chlorine
A shock treatment with chlorine is made with powdered chlorine and dissolves quickly in water. It’s effective immediately, but it’s important to use a sufficient quantity for the treatment to be effective. The amount you use will depend on the volume of water in your pool. Certain products are specifically identified as chlorine shock.”
When should you shock your swimming pool with chlorine?
A chlorine shock treatment needs to be done in a timely manner, and only in certain cases, i.e., when your usual treatment is no longer effective. The chlorination shock restores the balance of the water, its cleanliness, and its transparency.
You must do a chlorine shock treatment:
- In the spring, when you open your pool. After winter, when your pool water must be thoroughly cleaned before the first swimmer gets in your pool.
- If the water in your swimming pool becomes cloudy and the level of chlorine is too low. A shock treatment will restore the level.
- If algae develop in your swimming pool. A chlorine shock treatment solves this problem.
- In the case of an imbalance, if the chlorine already used has been insufficient. A chlorine shock treatment will restore the chlorine level.
- After an incident that significantly pollutes your swimming pool (heavy rains, strong winds, etc.). In these cases, consider performing a shock treatment to restore the balance and clarity of the water as soon as possible.
After each chlorine shock treatment, your water will be clear. However, regular cleaning of your swimming pool should never be neglected.
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Algaecide
Using an algaecide in your swimming pool
You can use an algaecide as a preventive treatment or to solve a particular issue. If your water becomes cloudy or if the walls of your pool are slippery, it may be due to the growth of algae. An algaecide will eliminate algae in your water.
Once the treatment is complete, you must clean your swimming pool. Simply scrub the pool walls with a brush to remove the dead algae. Then let the filtration system work until your water once again becomes crystal clear. By adding a flocculent to your water, you can optimize the filtration process.
The algaecide action is not continuous. To avoid algae returning, use a small amount of algaecide as a preventive measure.
Simple ways to prevent the growth of algae
A great way to prevent the presence of algae is to regularly check the pH level and the temperature of your water; they must not be too high. Also make sure to maintain an adequate level of disinfectant in the water.
Not using your swimming pool? Cover it! Algae need light to grow so depriving them of light helps. If you use a solar cover, be careful, as you do not want the temperature of the water to become too high. Algae love the heat!
Another preventive measure is to regularly clean your pool (using a broom or your robotic pool cleaner) and your filter.
Use an algaecide in your swimming pool to prevent the presence of algae or to eliminate them if they should appear. The quantity needed will vary on a case-by-case basis.
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Most common problems
1. Dirt deposits on the surface of the water
Dirt deposits on the surface of the water are one of the most common problems. Remove large pieces of debris using a net and clean the pool afterward using a pool vacuum or robotic pool cleaner. Also remember to clean the filter, pump, and skimmer regularly, to avoid the accumulation of waste.
2. Oily residue on the surface of the water
Various products used by swimmers (sunscreen, make-up, etc.) and air pollution can cause the appearance of oily residue on the surface of the water. To remedy this, an absorbent fabric is available that is placed in the skimmer to absorb residue.
3. Dirt on the pool wall at the water line
The filtration process can help to reduce the limestone, waste, and oils, which settle on the surface of the water. However, you will still find some of this type of residue on the walls of your pool, at the water line. You will need to clean this area regularly (at least once a week when your pool is in operation). Simply use a sponge (without scraper, to avoid damaging the lining) with a common household cleaning product.
4. Strong smell of chlorine? Eye irritation?
A strong smell of chlorine emanating from your water is not necessarily caused by too much chlorine in your pool. Strangely, it could be because of too little chlorine, which can also cause eye irritation. Should that be the case, you’ll then want to carry out a chlorine shock treatment or use active oxygen.
5. Translucent water, but tinged with green or brown
Your water is clear and translucent, but it has a brown or green hue. This indicates a high content of mineral or metallic particles. You can remedy the problem by first checking your filter and the pH level. You may need to carry out a shock treatment. Of course, you will also have to thoroughly clean your pool.
6. Cloudy water, rough pool walls?
This issue can be explained by too much limestone in the water. First, clean the bottom of your pool with a brush and vacuum. If this does not resolve the situation, use a product such as a stabilizer or an anti-scale treatment.
7. Milky-white water
If the water of your swimming pool is whitish or appears milky, a number of issues may be the cause, including algae, limestone, variation in the pH, ineffective filtration, etc. To restore the water’s balance, you will need to carry out a chlorine shock treatment or use a flocculent product.
8. Gleaming metallic blue water?
If you notice this phenomenon in your swimming pool, it’s due to brass oxidation in the water. A flocculent product and washing the filter should restore your water to its usual colour.
9. Green water
Your water is greenish, your pool floor is slippery. This means that algae have grown in your pool. In such case, check the pH level and adjust it accordingly. This is important as the pH level impacts the efficiency of the disinfectant you use.
Do a shock treatment (by increasing the dose of chlorine you usually use). You can also opt to use an algaecide.
Keep your filter running until the water becomes clear again.
To eliminate algae: hand-brush the walls of your swimming pool.
The condition of your water will determine the action you need to take. If algae only just appeared on your pool walls, it will be easier to restore it to its usual state. However, if the water is opaque green, you will have to be more patient as you rebalance the pool water.
10. “Thick” water
If you don’t see dirt deposits in your pool, and the water is clear but feels “thick,” or the walls of your pool are slippery, you may well have algae in your pool. Algae are not necessarily visible, but you can feel them!
Various factors can explain the presence of algae in your swimming pool:
- A problem with the maintenance of your swimming pool;
- Your filter is blocked, your pump is damaged, or you have a build-up of limestone and scale in your pipes, which hinders the efficiency of your circuitry;
- You should re-evaluate your treatments (chlorine or pH);
- Your water is too hot (algae tend to thrive in warmer water);
- Algae are not dangerous to health. On the other hand, when algae die, they cause various problems: they can block your filtration system (and the other conduits of your pool), and cause your pool water to appear greenish in colour. Furthermore, if it develops unchecked, an incalculable number of bacteria will also develop. In that case, there will be health concerns and swimming should be forbidden.
Solutions
As soon as you notice the walls and bottom of your pool have become slimy, or that your water seems “thick” the sooner you should act. Taking immediate action lessens the chance of damage.
- Start by brushing the bottom and walls of your swimming pool with a telescopic brush or use a robotic pool vacuum.
- Then, add a dose of algaecide (algae treatment).
- Increase the filtration time. Filtrate constantly for a few days.
- Algae tend to develop slower in acidic water. Reduce the level of pH to about 6.8.
- If the water in your swimming pool has already begun to turn green, do a chlorine shock treatment.
- At the beginning of the season, when opening your pool, treat your water with an algaecide to prevent algae from developing. As a preventive measure, you can add a dose of algaecide every 15 days during the season.
Guide to Closing an In-Ground Pool +
You can close your pool as late as mid-October. If algae are present or if the water is visibly not clear, treat it immediately.
IMPORTANT: Carefully read the entire instructions before closing your pool.
TIPS: Do not stop maintaining the pool or stop filtering the pool before closing day. Before closing your pool for the winter, make sure there are no water leaks. If you do have leaks, make repairs immediately to avoid causing further damage to the pool.
STEP 1: DAY BEFORE THE SHUTDOWN
- Vacuum the pool and do a backwash.
- Balance the alkalinity and pH.
- Do a chlorine treatment.
- Clean the filter.
STEP 2: CLEANING THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
- Clean the filter with an appropriate cleanser.
- Clean the residue around the pool’s water line.
- Clean the solar cover with an appropriate product and store it in a dry area.
STEP 3: DRAINING THE POOL
- Shut down the skimmer valve and open the bottom drain valve.
- Position the drain handle to DRAIN or WASTE. Let the water level go down to one inch (1″) under the water returns. The water must be low enough to allow you to remove the water in the water return hoses.
- Turn off the pump when the water level is correct.
- Unscrew the water return balls and remove them. NEVER REMOVE THE WATER RETURN PART FASTENED WITH SCREWS.
- Open the skimmer valve.
- Drain the pipes as follows:
Using a wet/dry vacuum that both sucks and blows, empty the pipes according to one of the following methods: Remove the filter’s piping to give you direct access to the water return hoses and whirlpool jets. If you have a chlorinator, disconnect the hose on the “OUT” side of it, and if not, disconnect the high-pressure hose which starts above the pump and connects at the filter head. Then place the filter handle in the RECIRCULATE position. Insert the vacuum hose, having positioned it in “blow” mode, and the other end of the hose in the piping that you just undid. If you have whirlpool jets, turn on the water return valve and the whirlpool jet valve. Start the vacuum and let it blow through the piping; the water contained in the hoses will drain into the pool. When water stops flowing out of the returns, empty the skimmer. To do so, open the pump basket cover. Then insert the vacuum hose (in “vacuum” mode) directly into the skimmer hose. Run the vacuum until you feel good suction inside your pool’s pump. If you have a water heater, please read the instructions on how to shut it down (further down in this text) and follow all the steps before going on with the rest of the procedure. Then position the filter handle to WINTERIZE or between two positions. - Open and leave open the skimmer valve and the bottom drain valve.
- Cover the water returns and skimmer caps with Teflon tape and screw into the water returns. For whirlpool jets, we recommend you use expandable rubber caps to completely block off the jets.
- Install a Styrofoam hibernation kit inside the skimmer to prevent ice expansion. Please carefully follow all instructions provided with the kit.
- Remove the pressure gauge and the glass indicator on the filter head. Then remove the drain caps on the filter and pump. Let the water drain away by itself (make sure that it is draining). DO NOT PUT THE CAPS BACK ON.
- Clean your chlorinator by taking off the last washers inside. BE CAREFUL! THERE WILL BE A STRONG SMELL OF CHLORINE. Then take off the chlorinator’s draining cap to drain the water that had remained inside.
- Remove all the pool accessories (corner step, ladder(s), diving board, safety cable). When removing the ladder(s), be sure that the rubber stops stay in place; otherwise you could damage your pool liner.
- Once you’ve finished this part of the process, you only need to use the winterizing products. Be sure to follow the instructions provided with these products – they may vary as new technologies are introduced or as environmental standards evolve – and it’s best to be fully informed every year before using these products.
POOL ACCESSORIES
Lights
Turn the breaker controlling the light(s) OFF. Remove the light(s). If you have a stainlesssteel light with a glass window (American Product, Sta-Rite or Jacuzzi), lie down on the pool’s surround and undo the light screw located at the top of the metal ring. The light can then be removed and placed on the pool surround. We recommend placing a piece of Styrofoam over the glass window to prevent scratching, and then placing it inside a polythene bag. Using a small stake and a cord, attach the bag in such a way that it cannot fall into the water.
Water heater
Position the water heater to “0-OFF” and turn off the breaker, as required. We strongly recommend that you hose down the inside and outside of the heater to wash out all debris before the winter. Unplug the water hoses and blow or suck the air inside them to ensure that ice cannot expand into the hoses during the winter. Then shut down the hoses and leave the bypass valves open. Protect it with a tarp, a waterproof canvas or polythene-type plastic. If you have a gas water heater, do not forget to shut off the gas.
Salt chlorine generator
Turn OFF the generator power switch and unplug the electrical cord. Then unplug the cell from the control panel and unscrew the cell from the hose before taking it completely away from the pool’s piping. Using a cell support (which keeps it upright), clean the cell with a solution designed specifically for that purpose. To clean the cell, pour the solution inside the cell and leave it for about 15 minutes, then rinse it using your garden hose. Once it’s clean, the cell can be put back in place.
IMPORTANT: Please note that this information is provided for reference only, and that at all times work done is undertaken at the user’s risk.
Guide to Closing an Above-Ground Pool +
STEP 1: DAY BEFORE THE SHUTDOWN
- Vacuum the pool and do a backwash.
- Balance the alkalinity and pH.
- Do a chlorine treatment.
- Clean the filter.
STEP 2: CLEANING THE FILTER AND ACCESSORIES
- Clean the filter with an appropriate cleanser.
- Clean the residue at the pool’s water line.
- Clean the solar cover with an appropriate product and store in a dry area.
STEP 3: DRAINING THE POOL
- Pull down the lever of the three-way valve to position 1 to shut down your skimmer (Position 1 should be at the top of the skimmer).
- Shut down the pump. Position the filter lever to DRAIN (only once the filter has been cleaned), otherwise, position the lever to BACKWASH and run it for five minutes and then position it to DRAIN.
- For pools that do not have a bottom drain, draining must be performed with a vacuum.
- Lower the water level 15″–18″ below the skimmer (consult your vendor as recommended water levels can vary from one manufacturer to another).
- Shut down the pump.
STEP 4: PUMP STORAGE
- Unplug the pump.
- Disconnect all the hoses.
- Empty water from the pump basket and clean as necessary.
- Store the pump in a heated location.
STEP 5: FILTER STORAGE
- Unscrew the pressure gauge.
- Take off the glass bubble (if there is one).
- Take off the cap at the bottom of the tank. Leave on a sloped surface for a few days to completely drain the tank.
- Store all the pieces together.
- Leave the filter position at WINTERIZE.
STEP 6: BOTTOM DRAIN
- Pool antifreeze is required in the bottom drain hose, regardless of the type of valve or connecting hose.
- Place the three-way valve at the FULL DRAIN position (meaning it is opened sufficiently to pour the antifreeze into the skimmer).
- 3Pour the antifreeze through the skimmer to the bottom drain.
- Insert the Styrofoam flange through the skimmer to the bottom of the pool and shut down the skimmer valve.
- For uneven ground (questionable drainage):
- Disconnect the bottom drain hose under the three-way valve.
- Tie the hose to a stake near the pool and leave it hanging above the pool.
- Pour antifreeze in very slowly.
- Insert the Styrofoam flange and fasten it tightly with a piece of adhesive tape or by bending it. Ensure that the skimmer is draining by leaving the three-way valve open.
For uneven ground (questionable drainage):
- Disconnect the bottom drain hose under the three-way valve.
- Tie the hose to a stake near the pool and leave it hanging above the pool.
- Pour antifreeze in very slowly.
- Insert the Styrofoam flange and fasten it tightly with a piece of adhesive tape or by bending it. Ensure that the skimmer is draining by leaving the three-way valve open.
STEP 7: SKIMMER
- Remove the skimmer by gently bending its small door and removing the basket.
- Clean the skimmer.
- Insert the Styrofoam inside the skimmer.
STEP 8: WATER RETURN
- Unscrew the ring around the water return to remove the eyeball.
- Screw on the winter cap to avoid water leakage.
WATER RETURN LIGHTS
- Remove the light and store it in a dry location.
- Insert a cap in the cavity.
STEP 9: SHUTDOWN KIT
- Follow the directions included with the shutdown kit.
- Using a shutdown kit will help you maintain clean water during the entire winter.
STEP 10: WINTER COVER
When using a winter cover, you must place a ball under the cover and ensure that the water that accumulates on the cover is drained; this will avoid unnecessary tension on the cover which could eventually damage the pool. The winter cover should be taken off before periods of heavy freezing.
NET
If you use a net for leaves, you can remove it after all the leaves have fallen. However, if you are installing an elastic system, the net can spend the winter over the pool without any problem.
STEP 11: SHUTTING DOWN THE WATER HEATER
- Drain the heater using a wet/dry vacuum.
- Consult your retailer to find out if you need to use antifreeze in the water heater hoses.
ATTENTION: Once your pool is closed, heavy autumn rainfall could cause the water level to rise. A too-high water level, combined with frost, could damage the skimmer’s side panels. If the water should rise, again lower the water level to 18″ below the skimmer. Ensure that rain and melting snow will drain properly, meaning away from the pool, to avoid damage to the structure.
IMPORTANT: Please note that this information is provided for reference only and that at all times work done is undertaken at the client’s risk..
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- Cleaning the plumbing
- Starting your spa
- Balancing the water
- Adjusting chlorine and pH
- Shocking the water
- Using a clarifier
- Using a descaling agent
- Cleaning the spa filters
- Draining your spa
- Closing / Winterizing
Cleaning up the plumbing
Before you drain your spa, remember to use a plumbing cleaner to get rid of grease and other build-up. We strongly recommend using a special product to clean the inside of your spa’s plumbing. Dirty pipes give off a bad smell and harbour excessive amounts of bacteria. What’s more, all that build-up makes cleaning products less effective.
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Starting your spa
Take the time to check the overall condition of your spa (seals, hoses, valves, acrylic shell, collars or clamps) to see if there is any problem or damage.
Make all necessary repairs before you proceed. Contact a professional if you need help.
Go through your cleaning products. If they’re expired, throw them out. If you’re missing any products, be sure to get them before you start up your spa. If you have an AquaChek test kit, check the expiry date.
Preparing the spa
- Make sure your spa is level.
- Remove the wooden cover you used to winterize your spa.
- Remove the spa cover and clean it using a spa cover cleaner.
- Place the filter cartridges and basket in the skimmer.
- Connect the motor, blower, light and ozonator (if applicable).
- Make sure all ball valves installed at pipe ends are open.
- Clean the acrylic shell using the appropriate cleaner.
- Replace the jet inserts.
- Fill the spa using a garden hose (up to 1 cm below the lowest pillow).
- Insert the hose in the area where the filter was located.
- Turn ON the GFCI .
- Turn off the jets, waterfall and air controls.
- Remove the drain plug to drain your spa.
- Fill the spa again using a garden hose (up to 1 cm below the lowest pillow).
- Insert the hose in the area where the filter was located.
- Turn ON the GFCI.
- Use the keypad to adjust the temperature.
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Balancing the water
Test your spa water to adjust total alkalinity and calcium hardness and make sure they are in the ideal range. Check that pH and chlorine (or bromine) levels are in the appropriate range and be sure to maintain the balance at all times. Chlorine (or bromine) should be added daily or as needed. pH levels should be checked or adjusted weekly.
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Adjusting chlorine and pH level
With water test interpretation tools online, there is no need to leave the house to analyze the water in your spa. All you have to do is enter your water test results online and you’ll get instant advice on the amount of product you should use to balance your water.
With a bit of effort and perseverance, you’ll be able to keep your water balanced at all times.
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Shocking the water
Shock your spa water weekly without using chlorine. Shocking your water helps clarify and oxidize the water while eliminating the smell of chlorine. You can use the spa right after the treatment.
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Using a clarifier
Use a clarifier weekly to eliminate particulates and restore clarity to your spa water.
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Using a descaling agent
Adding a descaling agent to your water prevents scale build-up and protects the spa’s plumbing and heating unit against corrosion.
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Cleaning the spa filters
Always filter your spa water to make sure it is really clean. Install the spa filters as soon as you have installed your spa. Filtration is the first step in the spa water treatment process. To clean your filters, take out the cartridges and use a cartridge filter cleaner to remove grease and body oils from the filters. Be sure to clean your cartridge filters once a month.
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Draining your spa
Drain your spa every three months to clean the tub and the pipes. This is also a good time to clean the filters or replace them if needed. When you’re done, simply refill the spa and treat the water as usual.
Draining your spa for winter
If you have an outdoor spa and don’t plan to use it during the cold season, be sure to drain it just before winter. To do so, empty the tub completely and cover it with a spa cover. Unplug all equipment and turn off the power.
Remember to drain (purge) the pipes as well to make sure they don’t freeze in winter.
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Closing / winterizing
It is extremely important to properly winterize your spa in order to avoid leaks, damage to the filtration system and deformities on its acrylic shell. Careful winterizing will extend the life of your spa, as long as you take good care of it.
Although you should never turn off your pump prior to winterizing, you may adjust the thermostat down to its minimum temperature setting.
Once you are ready to close your spa for the winter, proceed as follows:
Turn off the pump.
Remove, clean and store the filter cartridge.
Remove and store spa accessories, such as baskets, floating objects, brome dispenser, etc.
Drain the spa.
- Switch off the breaker that powers the spa.
- Remove cover.
- Connect a garden hose to the draining valve, and extend hose to the street.
- Open the draining valve.
- Once the spa is drained, remove excess water with flexible plastic cups and towels.
- Open the access panel located under the electronic control panel.
Unplug pump, blower, ozone generator, light and any other items connected to the electric control panel. Store indoors.
Unscrew all the plumbing connections and fittings.
Unscrew all the water jets and store them indoors.
Using a blower or a ShopVac-type vacuum cleaner, vacuum and blow into every pipe to ensure that all jet holes are dry and free of water.
A good way to proceed is as follows: With your vacuum or blower in one hole, plug every other hole with a rubber stopper, except for one. Blow or vacuum, then switch the rubber stoppers around to close the previous hole and open another one. Repeat for every hole. This will ensure maximum pressure within the plumbing circuit. Use the top-mounted valves to direct the airflow to different zones.
Blow air into every hole leading to the spa’s blower, if applicable.
With a towel, wipe down the water ejected from the holes.
Add spa antifreeze (non-toxic) to all the pipes from inside the spa, as there may still be water remaining in the plumbing circuit.
Pour antifreeze into the holes that lead to the spa’s blower.
Remove excess water with a flexible plastic container.
Use a towel to wipe down the spa until it is dry.
Close the access panel.
Insert the pre-formed foam block so it reaches the same height as the cover.
Install spa cover over foam block, ensuring it is centered and properly aligned.
Install a tarp over the spa and attach it securely. This will protect your spa against snow, ice and wind damage.
Store your chemicals in a dry, heated place, so you can use them again next year.
If you choose to keep your spa operational in winter:
- You’ll need to drop by the store to obtain some additional information.
- Clear a safe passageway to access the spa.
- Remove snow from the cover.
- Use and maintain your spa exactly as you would in summer. If you don’t use it very often, ease up on the addition of sanitizer.
- When you decide to drain your spa, drain only 6 to 12 inches at a time with a submersible pump. Quickly add new water and restart your pump before the pipes freeze.
- Check your spa regularly to ensure that the pump(s) and water heater are working properly.
- Keep your spa water at a minimum temperature of 30°C (85°F).
- When a power outage occurs, avoid removing the cover in order to keep the heat inside the spa. It can remain off for up to 3 or 4 days without freezing.
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